COLLECTION: OCTOBER
AUTUMN-WINTER 08-09
Miquel Suay presents for Autumn/Winter 2009 a seductive man who has an air of the powerful Russia of old and the clamour of the revolutionary people.
The Valencian designer’s new collection is inspired by the end of the tsarist époque, where all of the opulence and glory of Imperial Russia fell, giving way to the political change that would culminate in the Russian Revolution of 1917.
It is a time period that is represented by the literary work of Boris Pasternak, Doctor Zhivago, which would later be taken to the cinema at the hands of the director David Lean and portrays the cultural and political change of his country.
And, in the same way, Miquel Suay transfers us to this time period through aesthetics which contrast tsarist exuberance with cold socialist Russia in a luxury off-the-peg vision.
Miquel Suay creates a small collection of coats, jackets and leather waistcoats which are made by the prestigious Valencian furrier Gabriel Seguí. There are also trousers with a high waistline and trousers that are ham-shaped which are made in wools and velvets. There are shirts that are inspired by Mao form of farm-working slaves in printed satins. There are knee-length boots as well as shoes in suede and in a shaved hair texture. Buckled belts with insignias and decorations that represent Russian iconography are also to be found. It also includes Suits for night-time and for the most elegant celebrations. Brightness that is contrasted with elegant velvets and fur collars. The way of the hats and furs remind us of the Cossacks, who were those Russian warriors that were prohibited with the arrival of the communist political system. Their origin comes from nomadic tribes from the south of Russia, which is the reason why they were dressed in those characteristic clothes to protect them from the cold.
As a complement, this present-day travelling man carries large bags in which to keep all the objects of interest that he finds along the way, just like the investigator of his surroundings that he is. The warm atmosphere of the time of changes and, more than ever, the cold for the Russian people is seen to be represented here by a range of current colours which are irrefutably adapted to the theme. Colour is fundamental in this collection as it is assigned a symbolic meaning, united by the ambivalenc of red which transfers the power of the tsars to the Russian revolution. |
|
 |
